11 Days in Sicily with Kids: Ultimate Sicily Road Trip Itinerary
We recently returned from an 11-day road trip through Sicily with our two kids, and it was one of the best family vacations we‘ve ever taken. Sicily’s chaotic cities, delectable sweets, and amazing scenery offered something for everyone. Our three-year-old went wild for the desserts, our one-year-old ogled the brilliantly decorated baroque churches, and we parents soaked up the history and culture.
Sicily, sitting in the Mediterranean Sea like a soccer ball just kicked by the boot of the Italian mainland, is an ideal family travel destination. The largest island in the Mediterranean has it all: a complex history, beautiful beaches, excellent food, exciting cities, and much more. For the adventurous family looking to experience Europe with a twist, Sicily is the place to go. As a regional crossroads with a long history of Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman, and Spanish occupation, the island mixes the best of Italy and North Africa into one vibrant destination.
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Should I rent a car to visit Sicily with kids?
Renting a car when visiting Sicily with kids is a must. It will give you the flexibility to explore locations not easily reached through the island’s public transportation system, such as the beautiful baroque city of Noto, the mosaics at Romana del Casale, and the base camp at Rifugio Sapienza for reaching the top of Mt. Etna.
Renting a car in Sicily will also save you the hassle of lugging your suitcases through cities and on and off buses or trains. Although our family travels light, we were still glad to minimize the number of times we needed to transit all our belongings on foot.
You may have heard horror stories about driving in Sicily, but don’t let these rumors deter you. Yes, it can be an intense place to drive, but it’s not impossible! In fact, I’ve written a guide on everything you need to know about driving in Sicily!
When is the best time to visit Sicily with kids?
You can visit Sicily any time of year, but I recommend avoiding the summer months of July and August. Crowds and temperatures soar during the summer, with highs reaching up to 120˚F (49˚C). If you have flexibility for your dates, try to plan your family trip to Sicily in the spring or fall shoulder seasons.
Winter is also a great time to visit Sicily. The crowds are fewer and temperatures are moderate. We traveled to Sicily over the Christmas holiday period and felt like we had the place to ourselves, hardly any tourists in sight. While the winter months are quiet and some places may be closed, we had no trouble seeing the highlight attractions.
Stroller or baby carrier when visiting Sicily with kids?
If traveling to Sicily with a baby or toddler, I suggest bringing both a stroller and a baby carrier. Some sights and towns are difficult to navigate with a stroller; cobblestone streets and steps may be hard to push a stroller on. Overall, most places were stroller-friendly and we were glad we brought along the best travel stroller in existence, the BabyZen YOYO.
A baby carrier is essential when traveling to Sicily with a baby, or as in our case, with a baby and a toddler. We love our Ergobaby Omni 360, which has lasted through two kids and countless travels. For traveling to Sicily with young kids, a baby, or a toddler, packing a good travel stroller and a baby carrier will make for a more pleasant experience.
How to get to Sicily
The most common way to get to Sicily is by plane. Visitors can fly to either Catania in the east or Palermo in the west. While Palermo is the bigger city, there are more flights to Catania and they tend to be cheaper. When flying to Sicily you will usually need to stop over in another Italian city such as Milan, Naples, or Rome. There are no direct flights from North America, though some of the major European carriers have flights from their main hubs.
If you are visiting Sicily from the Italian mainland, consider taking a train to either Palermo or Catania. When leaving Sicily, we took the overnight train from Palermo to Naples. This was great fun for our toddler (and my young-at-heart husband), although not entirely restful for us adults. Overnight ferries are another option.
If you plan to visit both Sicily and Malta (the latter of which is not part of Italy), you can either fly or take a ferry between the two Mediterranean islands.
11-Day Sicily Roadtrip Itinerary
Day 1: Travel Day
Fly to Catania, then pick up your rental car at the airport. Drive an hour to the city of Taormina, where you will base yourself for the next 3 nights. Grab dinner at Granducca Restaurant in the heart of town, then off to bed to sleep off that jetlag!
Day 2: Explore Taormina and the surrounding area
Begin the day in Taormina, home to a Teatro Antico, or ancient theater. Originally built by the Greeks in the 3rd Century BCE then remodeled and used by the Romans in the 3rd Century CE, this picturesque theater has magnificent views of Mount Etna, Taormina, and the Mediterranean Sea. On top of the admission, pay extra for the guided tour. There are few interpretive signs at the theater, and you will get more out of your visit with the guide. The theater is outdoors and not stroller-friendly, so I recommend a carrier for little ones unable to walk.
After the morning at the Teatro Antico, take the cable car down to Isola Bella beach for a nice walk along the water. This is a great time to let the kids run around, play on the rocky beach, and let off some steam. Grab lunch at one of the restaurants along the beach or return via cable car to the main town. Note, the beachfront restaurants are closed during the winter months.
After lunch, walk Taormina’s main thoroughfare. Duck into the cathedral, grab an espresso and some famous Sicilian sweets and then make your way back to your rental car and drive to the nearby village of Castelmola.
In Castelmola, make your way up to the ruins for the best views of majestic Mount Etna to the west and charming Taormina to the east. Meander the serpentine streets and visit the cathedral if it’s open. On your drive back to Taormina, stop at the Sanctuary of Madonna della Rocca, a small chapel built inside a cave. Again you’ll have great views of Taormina from above, but quite different from Castelmola. If the chapel is open, head inside. Otherwise, peek in through the small window on its door. Return to Taormina for dinner.
Day 3: Mount Etna and Environs
Today you will be visiting Mount Etna, Europe’s most active volcano. It’s important to get an early start as the mountain tends to cloud over later in the day. The drive from Taormina to Mount Etna is a scenic one-hour, mostly on easily navigable country roads that wind up the mountain. Upon arrival, park in one of the lots near the cable car. An “attendant” may charge you for the parking. It’s best to pay the €1 for them to “watch” your vehicle.
Take the cable car up to just over 8,000 feet. From there, hop on a jeep (or snowcat, depending on the time of year) and proceed to 9,500 feet. There a guide will walk you along Etna’s rim and lecture on the history and geology of the volcano. If you’re interested in reading more, I have an in-depth post on everything you need to know about visiting Mount Etna.
From Mt. Etna, drive to the nearby town of Zafferana Etnea for lunch, which is famous for its honey made by black bees. Be sure to sample some while you’re there.
After lunch and walking through Zafferana Etnea, drive to the northern side of Mount Etna and taste some of the famous Etna wines. We recommend Filippo Grasso Winery, where the owner will give you a tour of the property then welcome you into her home to taste their fabulous wines. You’re welcome to drop by, but I recommend making a reservation for the best experience. Our visit to this family-run winery was a highlight of our trip.
Return to Taormina for dinner, then pack for tomorrow’s departure.
Day 4: Catania
From Taormina, drive one hour south to the city of Catania. You’ll remember Catania from your flight in, and now it’s time to experience Sicily’s gritty yet charming second city. In Catania, visit the main square (Piazza del Duomo), the Cattedrale di Sant’Agata, and the famous fish market. I recommend taking your time to walk through the fish market, listening to the sellers calling out their wares. Catania’s fish market is also a good place to grab a walking lunch. Some favorites we had were sardines in olive oil and roasted artichokes.
After lunch, visit the Teatro Romano di Catania, a Roman theater hidden in the middle of the city. While not as majestic as the one in Taormina, after the bustle of Catania stepping into this small theater is like being transported to another world.
If you have time, consider ending your day in Catania by visiting Museo dello Sbarco in Sicilia 1943, one of the few World War II museums in Italy. The museum is by the train station, about a 30-minute walk from the fish market through less savory parts of town. Unfortunately, very little is in English, and during our visit the introductory film, which has English subtitles and supposedly provides a lot of context for the museum, was not showing. As a result, we felt we did not get as much from the museum as we would have liked. Your experience may differ, and if learning about the Second World War from an Italian perspective interests you, then I suggest going and making your own impressions.
From Catania, drive another hour to Syracuse, where you will grab dinner and spend the next three nights.
Day 5: Syracuse
In the morning, drive to Neopolis Archaeological Park in the “new” part of Syracuse. The Archaeological Park is home to an ancient Greek limestone quarry and one of the largest and best-preserved Greek theatres in the world. I suggest hiring a guide for your visit as there are few interpretive signs within the park. The guide we hired also gave us a tour of Ortigia, Syracuse’s “old town”. Depending on your level of interest and whether or not you hire a guide, plan on spending 1-2 hours at the Archaeological Park.
Next, drive to Ortigia. This small island was the original Syracuse, dating back 2,500 years. Walk through the old town and see the ruins of Apollo’s Temple and Ortigia’s Cathedral, which was built on top of a Greek temple for the goddess Athena and uses the original columns as supports.
Continue south to the Arethusa Spring and take in the sea views. Grab lunch at one of the restaurants overlooking the sea. We ate at Restaurante Mokrito, just across the street from the Arethusa spring, and enjoyed our meal there.
After lunch, visit either the Syracuse Museum of Puppets or Castello Maniace on Ortigia’s southern tip. We visited Castello Maniace and, apart from the nice views, found it lacking. If you are traveling to Sicily with kids, they would probably enjoy the puppet museum more (though it’s not open in the winter).
Finally, finish your day in Syracuse by visiting the Bagno Ebraico, a historic Jewish mikveh (ritual bath) and the oldest intact mikveh in Europe. The mikveh is located under the Alla Giudeca Hotel and was discovered during the hotel’s renovation. Guided tours of the mikveh are given every thirty minutes.
End your day with a seafood dinner at Osteria de Seby.
Day 6: Day trip to Noto
In the morning, walk through Syracuse’s outdoor market. The market runs along Via Emmanuele de Benedictis between Via Vittorio Veneto and Apollo’s Temple. The small market takes about 30 minutes to walk through and experience. It’s also a good place to grab a quick bite before hopping in the car for 45 minutes and driving to Noto.
On the way out of Syracuse, consider a stop at the Madonna delle Lacrime basilica, a distinctive modern church that is worth a quick visit.
Noto is famous for its exquisite baroque architecture. It’s one of the few planned towns in Sicily, and the entire main thoroughfare is resplendent in the sunlight. It’s a joy to simply walk the streets in Noto and see how the buildings glow golden as the light changes, but there are also many churches and a Duomo to visit.
While visiting Noto, grab a casual lunch at Sabbinirica a putia d’ercole, and stroll languidly along the main drag. Our favorite was Noto’s Cathedral, which contains some evocative art made from the timber of refugee boats. Many of the churches tout city views up in their bell towers, but I recommend visiting the terrace of the Church of Santa Chiara. This offers the best views of the Cathedral and town. Try to time your visit with sunset, if possible.
Return to Syracuse for the night.
Day 7: Mosaics of Villa Romana del Casale
The Mosaics of Romana del Casale are the best-preserved Roman mosaics in the world. Despite the long 2-hour drive from Syracuse, this out-of-the-way destination was one we couldn’t miss, and you shouldn’t either.
Before touring the mosaics, stop in Piazza Armerina to stretch your legs. Park in the new town, then walk uphill along winding cobblestone streets to visit the cathedral. There are many quick cafes to eat at, but we opted for a lengthier, and positively delicious, lunch at Osteria del Conte on Via Garibaldi.
From Piazza Armerina it is only a 10-minute drive to Villa Romana del Casale. A visit there can take anywhere from one to two hours, depending on crowds and your level of interest. There is a parking lot on-site, as well as a café near the entrance. Inside, visitors walk along elevated walkways and look down at the mosaic floors. The walkways are stroller-friendly, but there are some stairs at the beginning.
After visiting the mosaics, drive another 2 hours to Agrigento for the night.
Day 8: The Valley of the Temples
A trip through Sicily is a series of highlights, but the Valley of the Temples tops the list. One of the best concentrations of Greek temples outside of Greece, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a must-see for every Sicily itinerary.
But before stepping into the Valley of the Temples, begin your day by visiting the archaeological museum, Museo Archeologico Regionale Pietro Griffo. This museum, which you can see in 1-1.5 hours, will give you a foundation of the region’s history that will help put the temple ruins into context.
After the museum, drive to the Valley of the Temples. The site is along one main road, with parking lots at either end. During peak season shuttles operate between the two sides, ferrying visitors back to their cars and thus avoiding the 30-minute return walk. In the off-season, independent taxis operate as shuttles to provide an equivalent service. Plan on spending 1-2 euros per person, whichever option you go with.
I suggest parking near Porta V on the western end of the site. From there, take a taxi or shuttle to the entrance at Parcheggio Valle dei Templi. Start at the Temple of Juno and take your time at each temple. Everything is along the main road, so it’s impossible to get lost or miss anything.
There are cafes located in the center of the park, as well as near the parking lot at Porta V. Grab a quick lunch, then drive a scenic 2 hours north to Palermo.
This is where we said goodbye to our rental car. We returned the car at the Palermo airport and took the bus into the main city. Driving in Palermo is another beast, and you won’t need a car to get around in the city, so I suggest parting ways with it at this point as well.
Day 9: Explore Palermo
Palermo, Sicily’s capital, is a bustling metropolis full of exciting sites to see. There’s a lot to see in Palermo and its environs, but we only gave ourselves 3 days and found this mostly sufficient.
On our first day in Palermo, we took our time to stroll and take in the city, then visited two churches: The medieval Church of San Cataldo with its distinctive red, round domes on top, and the neighboring church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, decorated with distinctive Byzantine mosaics.
After lunch, we visited the Norman Palace and the Palatine chapel. The Palatine chapel is famous for its intricate mosaics which date back to the 10th century CE. The chapel is the real highlight of the Norman Palace, but while there you can also visit some staterooms and the meeting room of the Sicilian parliament.
Palermo is a great city to wander in, and I recommend you take your time to simply walk the city streets. On our first afternoon there we made our way to La Calla (the port area) and walked along the water. We were hoping to visit the Inquisition Museum, but unfortunately, they were not offering tours in English at the time.
Grab dinner along Via Maqueda, Palermo’s main drag, where it’s hard to go wrong with a meal.
Day 10: Palermo’s markets and history
If you have the means, consider taking a guided tour of Palermo. We booked a tour with Jacqueline Alio and learned so much from her about the city’s history. During our tour, we visited I Segreti del Chiostro, a former convent that now functions as a sweets shop next to the Church of Saint Catherine.
The desserts here use the original convent recipes, which the nuns bequeathed to the city upon closure of the convent. This is a great place to stop for an espresso and cannoli, and to stock up on marzipan and almond cookies to bring home (they last for months and make great gifts).
After finishing your refreshment, pop into the adjoining Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria. This church is one of Palermo’s hidden gems. While not much to look at from the outside, the interior offers one of the best examples of baroque architecture in Sicily. The style is distinctly feminine, with pink marble columns and accents. This makes sense when you remember that this was historically a private chapel for the convent nuns.
Next, head to the Ballaro market. Here, as in Catania, grab a walking lunch comprised of bites from various market stalls. Our favorites were ricotta “pizzas” (baked ricotta topped with sundried tomatoes and olives), spleen sandwiches (not for the lighthearted, or those with dainty stomachs!), and a surprisingly delicious lamb intestine skewer. Trust me, you just have to try it! Wash it all down with fresh-squeezed orange or pomegranate juice, and you have yourself a Palermito feast!
Finally, on our tour of Palermo, we visited the cathedral. The Palermo Cathedral is free to enter, but you can pay extra to visit the crypt and climb to the roof.
After the cathedral, we parted ways with our tour guide and took the city bus to Monreale. The neighborhood of Monreale, a 40-minute bus ride from central Palermo, houses a spectacular cathedral ornately decorated with Byzantine mosaics. These mosaics are similar to those of the Palatine chapel and Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio but on a much grander scale.
During your visit to Monreale Cathedral be sure to ascend into the rafters and take in sweeping views of Palermo, the sea, and the surrounding hills.
After visiting the Cathedral, walk around the corner and visit the adjacent cloisters. This peaceful space is adorned with intricately carved marble columns, and it’s fun to walk through and pick out the myriad of details in each one.
Finally, return to Palermo via bus or taxi (a taxi is more convenient, albeit pricier) for dinner and the night.
Day 11: Final day in Palermo
On our last day in Palermo, we took a taxi to visit the Santuario di Santa Rosalia, the patron saint of Palermo. This shrine, built into a cave in the mountain, is an annual pilgrimage site for Palermitos who pray to the saint to heal their ailments. Metal placards shaped like the various afflicted body parts adorn the cave, and a complex drainage system funnels water dripping from the ceiling into fonts along the walls (the water is said to have healing properties).
While you get to the Santuario di Santa Rosalia for cheaper by (infrequent) public bus, the taxi ride allowed us to get there faster and provided great views on the scenic drive up the mountain. At 90 euros the roundtrip taxi ride was a splurge (the driver waited for us while we visited the shrine), but we would not have been able to get there otherwise. Was it worth that much? Probably not, but we’re glad we saw it.
After a final lunch in Palermo, we toured Massimo Theater, Palermo’s opera house. The tour lasted about 45 minutes and took us into the main theatre as well as one of the box suites.
We then spent the remainder of the afternoon strolling through Palermo before catching an overnight train to mainland Italy.
Final Thoughts on Visiting Sicily with Kids
So, there you have it, an amazing 11-day Sicily road trip itinerary, with kids! Our time in Sicily was wonderful, and this itinerary served us well. Sicily is one of our favorite family-friendly destinations in Italy, and I think you and your children will love your time there! I hope you find it helpful for planning your visit to Sicily with your kids. Reach out in the comments below with any questions.
Until next time,
Tamar
